Thursday, April 12, 2012

Wild Boar Chili Verde




Wild Boar Chili Verde
Typical California wild boar habitat.  Many boar in California eat acorns.
In the above photo note all the pig rooting under this oak tree.  The boar's
acorn diet gives the meat a mild flavor and builds great porky fat on adult animals.  

I like pig…I like it a lot.  I like it in nearly every possible way pig in tube form, cured, and fresh.  Almost everyone on the globe loves to eat it and pigs have found a way to survive on every inhabitable continent.  From iconic Vietnamese banh xeo stuffed with roasted pork, shrimp, bean sprouts, and herbs to iconic German Bratwurst, to this iconic Mexican chili verde pigs are everywhere enjoyed by many and unfortunately taken for granted by many American sportsman.   Many hunters in North America view the wild pig as a dirty, disease riddled animal not fit for human consumption, which is unfortunate.  I see them as a great resource, a species very adaptable to the current human condition and taste-tee.  Most of the wild pigs I have shot here in California have been very mild, relatively lean, and very clean animals with few parasites.  I have killed California deer with more ticks and fleas than any of the pigs I have shot in California.   I always cringe when landowners tell me they shoot wild pigs and leave them to rot, because they cause property destruction.  This is really another blog post and don’t want to get off on a tangent here but, come on people eat what you kill or don’t kill it.
In general chili verde is made with a pork shoulder sometimes called Boston butt, but I have made it with roasts cut from the shoulder, the ribs and the ham of wild boar.  It is imperative you cook pigs and bear well done to make sure you kill any possible trichinosis bacteria it may carry.  This is true for most all omnivorous wild animals to be consumed by humans.    Braising is the method used here and it makes for a great way to make sure no trichinosis reaches your guts.

What you’ll need:
1 2-4 pound pork roast cut off the bone and into bite sized chunks.  If you have wild boar ribs replace the bite sided pieces with whole ribs and don’t bother removing the bones.
1-2 pound tomatillos
5-8 Polblano or Serrano Chilies
3-5 jalapenos depending on how spicy you like it.
1 large bunch of cilantro chopped
Juice from 2 limes
1-2 quarts chicken, duck, or game stock…  I tend to use duck stock a lot because that is what I make the most of, but any stock will work.
I large yellow onion chopped
5 cloves Garlic chopped
Bay leaf
Mexican Oregano
Large table spoon whole cumin seed
High quality corn tortillas 
Oil (only if wild boar is very lean)
A plastic bag
A large Dutch oven or heavy metal pot


In the metal pot add the meat and brown on all sides.  Sometimes in is necessary to add a little oil if the wild boar is very lean.  Brown meat on all sides and remove from pot, set aside. 
Add to pot Onion cook until translucent add garlic and cook until onion just browns remove from heat.
While meat is browning and onion is cooking, roast tomatillos on a cookie sheet under the broiler until brown or light black on all sides.  If a few parts are still green that is fine.  Be careful to not over blacken tomatillos. 
Also in the broiler or over an open flame roast the polblano or Serrano chilies and the jalapenos on all sides.  Once brown all over and skin starts to peel place in sealable plastic bag for 10 min and let cool on the counter.  This makes peeling the peppers easier.
In a blender combine tomatillos, peeled peppers, jalapenos, ¾ of the chopped cilantro, lime juice and.  Blend together until smooth. 
Pour blender mixture over browned meat onions and garlic in large metal pot or Dutch oven, add stock, and cook until meat is tender about an hour or two over medium low heat.
Add generous amount of Mexican oregano, bay leaf and cumin, approximately 20 min before serving.
Serve over white rice, and black beans.  Garnish with little Mexican crema or sour cream.  Tortillas make a great delivery system from plate to mouth!
A good day pig hunting in the Sutter Buttes
the smallest mountain range in the world.

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Whitetail




Clark's First Deer Manville, 2011


The Whitetail
November of 2011 will go down in my hunting history as one of the best, one for the ages, the season I hope many more will be like in the future.  It will be the ruler by which I judge future years.  Not only in the terms of animals seen, shot and chased but for the bond to places and deer I have come to love.  I didn’t really work very much in November this year and took almost three weeks off for the sole purpose of chasing the whitetail deer with bow and shot gun.  I was very fortunate to be able to hunt for whitetails in two states this year, my maternal family’s property in Manville, Indiana and my in-laws hunting haunts in Ozaukee, County, Wisconsin.  While both were great hunts they were very different, though there were common threads between the two, such as the camaraderie between family and friends; and the common white-tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus) a.k.a. the whitetail. 
This was the first double I have ever shot with bow and arrow.

At the Manville farm we archery hunt for whitetail from tree stands, while in Wisconsin it was a shot gun hunt where groups formulate deer drives.  At Manville we have about 20 deer stands strategically placed on 480 acres.  The stands are in areas where deer pass by frequently, and in November the deer move some times all day.  The successful hunter at Manville is patient, quiet and disciplined.  In Wisconsin, they also sit on stands, but most of the late morning and afternoons are spent organizing deer drives and pushing deer in small wood lots towards hunters sitting on the opposite side of said woodlot.  The successful hunter in Wisconsin formulates and executes a plan in accord with their fellow hunters.  The properties we hunted in Wisconsin had smaller woodlots and more agricultural fields than in Manville.  The properties are really very different, illustrating the whitetail’s adaptability to diverse habitats.  The hunting strategies are also very different, illustrating the adaptability of the human.  The struggle between hunter and hunted is what makes predator and prey more alike than different.  Fear motivates both, but in different ways.  The fear of being someone’s dinner and the fear of taking a life are both fear and in my mind equally powerful.  To the outsider looking in these animals couldn’t be more different, but in reality both are motivated by the same things: fear, success, and pleasure.  Stripping down the human experience to that of a common animal puts us in the larger biological context, something that is often lost with iPhones, computers, meat covered in plastic and modern day human life in general.  Wisconsin and the Manville hunt both reminded me of the basic animal needs and how humans truly are just like the rest of the living creatures on this planet. 
The whitetail is my favorite game animal due to its accessibility to the common hunter and its prolific nature in our ever changing man-made environment.  It could be argued the whitetail is the most accessible big game animal in North America.  Whitetails are a dynamic animal; they adapt to the human rhythms well and profit while many other species have been left by the wayside.  Additionally, they taste great and provide a protein source that is sustainable, organic and free range -- the original slow food.
Tree stands Clark and I used to film hunts.

Most everyone can find a place to kill a whitetail.  Many Eastern and Midwestern states sell an unlimited number of licenses for whitetail and in many of these states hunting permissions are granted willingly from landowners.  I’m lucky in that my family has owned property in Southern Indiana for many years.  I have hunted the property since I was 14 years old and have tried to go back to Manville every year.  This upcoming season will be my 22nd year hunting deer at Manville.  I think I might have it figured out by now, but it keeps me coming back for more. 
Manville is little more than a cross roads today, on the banks of the Indiana-Kantuk Creek.  The farm is made up of bottom land hardwoods like cotton woods, walnuts, beech and sycamores and agricultural fields that sometimes grow tobacco, corn or soy beans; and hills, which are forested and dominated by ash, maple and cedar.  I know the property very well, from individual sticks along path to individual trees that keep getting larger and larger with the passage of time.  Due to the soils underlain with limestone, certain areas are thick with cedar trees.  Walking the property in the very early morning before light gives the hunter intimate knowledge of every sharp stick, pond, and briar patch on the farm.  The kid that grows up hunting is rarely afraid of the dark for long. 
Shelton's Ash Manor. Great spot for deer camp eh?




The dark aptly describes the beauty of Manville.  Most everything is dark here in the late fall and winter.  After the explosion of yellow, and red in October, a crescendo of grays overtake the place.  The colors are muted -- lots of grays, blacks and greens.  I like to describe it as an original American Gothic.  There is a sense of place, in the muted grays, in the wood smoke and the thin layer of ash.  It is a place where beauty is found in the color of a well worn ax handle, a broken posthole digger, a derelict gray ford tractor, a pickup truck missing its hood with a tree where the engine should be and the gray winter coat and white breath of a whitetail buck on a cold morning.  It can be a harsh place where life is sometimes measured in decades rather than centuries, but a place that has been continuously occupied for thousands of years.  The gray and cream chert arrow heads that come from the creek bottom fields are the evidence of previous owners’ occupations.  The grays of the lichen covered ash bark and the gray of an ol’ man’s beard.  This season was much the same as the previous season’s family and friends, good food, and lots of deer.
Below are a few thoughts I wrote down while in Manville this year:
Deer Camp Hands Manville, November 2011

Hands have been stained with buck’s blood and scared by bramble

That bramble is thicker than evangelists in hell. Crickets make one fleeting attempt to mate in the last days of Indian summer.

Tarsal gland, horse shit and drying tobacco fill the barn's air; dogs lick the dirt floor's blood stains and devour the remains of a buck’s diaphragm.

Sounds of chain saws and cloths permeated with diesel fuel and 2 stroke engine exhaust

I found the teeth to a single row corn picker. This place is where implements go to die.

Coyotes sound like a hooker's last drunkin’ stand

Wind has blow down ash tops and cedar wood smoke clings to you like sweat

November rains cool you and the dampness permeates bones

Nicotine and caffeine greets the gray light; followed up by biscuits and gravy.

 To start the tractor you need a screwdriver to jump the solenoid.

The choke on the chain saw is broke; pour some gas in the carb.

Black locus thorns, sharper than a catfish spine, and meaner and than an old raccoon.

Paw-paws and persimmons delight buck tongues.

Soles of your boots worn thin, the happy death of the full yellow moon

The rut is on; bucks acting a fool are powerfully drunk on estrus

In the honey-hole, a murder has found the buck’s gut pile. Burning caul fat covers that top loin over a hickory fire.

A mixture of buck blood, dirt and saw dust under your finger nails, once there is impossible to remove.

Additionally, below are a few links to videos Clark and I made while in Manville. They are a lot of fun, but please realize these are hunting videos there will be blood. Please excuse the foul language; I was really excited for Clark’s first deer...